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How I recovered my Luton Homeworks 4 Series system from the dead

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Thread: How I recovered my Luton Homeworks 4 Series system from the dead

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This was such a saga and I want to share for the benefit of others. I have a Lutron Homeworks 4 Series H4P5-H48-120 system running only lights. Over time the system became unstable, i believe due to power outages/flickers. It would "crash" and the keypads would scroll / waterfall. Years ago I figured out that you could unplug the power, flip dip switch 1, power cycle, flip dip switch 1 back, and it would come back online. This happened so many times that eventually the 12v prong broke off where I was constantly yanking power. It sat for several months before I got around to working on it. After much research, I uncovered the Homeworks Illumination (HWI) software and downloaded 1.65 (the latest). I soldered the 12v power prong back onto the board and got it powered up, but only to boot mode. I bought a serial -> USB cable to connect to my laptop. User randyc was super helpful in walking me through how to get a processor added to a project so I could attempt to connect. Unfortunately my primary laptop is Win 11 and the serial cable would not work. Found a laptop still running Win 10 and was able to connect to the processor in boot mode. I checked and no OS was loaded, likely from the long period of being unplugged and a bad onboard battery. I then used HWI 1.65 to load the OS but it still would not boot. Tried several times, hit the internet and found a couple posts on here and elsewhere about low batteries, etc. I bought a replacement battery from Digikey.com - this one , with leads, that exactly matches the original, and had it installed by a local shop for $50. I had to upload the OS again, but still no boot. Frustrated, I hit the internet again. I found a post on here saying 1.65 would not restore the OS on certain older processors. So I found a link to 1.64 and paid $10 to access a forum to download it. No change at all. Then I messaged some folks and a different guy told me I would have to use a HWI version above 1.18 and below 1.50. So I went on the hunt for 1.49. Lutron tech support was useless and would not give it to me. Found a guy with access and he shared the software. Uploaded the OS with HWI 1.49 and bam it booted right up. I then moved to 1.65 and uploaded the latest software from it, which worked great. So now I had it booted but I did not have a backup of the project file. My original installer was happy to talk system upgrades but went silent when I asked for the project file. Perhaps he lost it, whatever... After much trial and error, and reading the excellent HWI help files, I restored the majority of my project. Everything important works now, and I actually have control over it for the first time which is super nice. My only remaining issue is that certain lights do not appear to be connecting to the processor. Oddly, the LED’s on Bus 4 look different from all the others – the RX light is solid bright vs flashing. I suspect an issue with the 12v daisy chain on that bus but have not had time to investigate further. I now have copies of HWI 1.16, 1.49, 1.64, and 1.65. I know PM’s are disabled here but find me on Reddit and I am happy to share. There are a handful of knowledgeable folks out there willing to help but they are few. Major thanks to: User randyc on this forum for his tremendous help. His advice in the beginning enabled the whole thing to play out. User floridacommand on this forum for posing about the version issue , tho he totally ghosted me shortly after I made contact via another online communication channel. An unnamed Reddit user for providing me the 1.49 software. E-Bay user automatedcontrols knows his stuff. I can’t speak for his service, but I would send my processor to him in a heartbeat if I could not DIY the above. Prices sound very reasonable too.

Glad to hear you got it working!

Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina www.convergenceusa.com

Hi WaarrEagle, I might have the same issue with my system. Could you please share the software and other info so I can give them a try? Your help would be much appreciated!

Originally Posted by Michael789 Hi WaarrEagle, I might have the same issue with my system. Could you please share the software and other info so I can give them a try? Your help would be much appreciated! Looking at your other post, it seems like you are facing the same issue I was. Have you tried the power cycle and dip switch #1 trick? That might get you back but I bet your onboard battery is bad. Message me on Reddit if you want the files. PM's are disabled here.

Thanks WaarrEagle! Dip switch is located under label Config, as marked in attached photo, right? How can I find you on Reddit? My username on reddit is Michae1789 (number 1, not letter l, before 789).

I tried the following sequence: power off (via circuit board switch), flip DIP switch #1, power back, flip DIP switch #1 back. Nothing changes. How can I find you on Reddit? My username on reddit is Michae1789 (number 1, not letter l, before 789).

Originally Posted by Michael789 I tried the following sequence: power off (via circuit board switch), flip DIP switch #1, power back, flip DIP switch #1 back. Nothing changes. How can I find you on Reddit? My username on reddit is Michae1789 (number 1, not letter l, before 789). I used to do the following: 1) power off, 2) flip dip switch #1, 3) restore power, 4) power off, 5) flip dip switch #1 back, 6) restore power. I was yanking the 12v plugs off but that is generally a bad idea as mine eventually broke off the board. I think you can use the onboard reset button instead of physically pulling power but I have not had to try this since restoring my system and replacing the battery. If that does not work or the processor stays in boot mode at that point (check LED status), then you need to reload the OS. I sent you a message on Reddit.

On Homeworks 4 Series processor, I just noticed that below the PWR label there's a LED light indicator for the power. I didn't pay attention to that light before. When the processor is powered, is that light stayed on or at least flashing? Currently when the processor is powered, no indication on the light at all. Does that mean the 12V power supply is bad? I measured the PowerSupply output without load and it's 13.6V. However, I heard that's not reliable to confirm the transformer is good. There's also the possibility that the PWR light itself is bad, how likely that can happen? Is it a good idea to measure voltage between the 2 ends of the LED PWR light when the processor is powered? is that more reliable then measure transformer output voltage without load? Attached photo with note about the PWR indicator I mentioned:

Originally Posted by Michael789 On Homeworks 4 Series processor, I just noticed that below the PWR label there's a LED light indicator for the power. I didn't pay attention to that light before. When the processor is powered, is that light stayed on or at least flashing? Currently when the processor is powered, no indication on the light at all. Does that mean the 12V power supply is bad? I measured the PowerSupply output without load and it's 13.6V. However, I heard that's not reliable to confirm the transformer is good. There's also the possibility that the PWR light itself is bad, how likely that can happen? Is it a good idea to measure voltage between the 2 ends of the LED PWR light when the processor is powered? is that more reliable then measure transformer output voltage without load? Attached photo with note about the PWR indicator I mentioned: I dont recall what that LED did when I was having issues. What are your 4 status LED's doing, the ones you posted a picture of earlier? Marked 1, 2, P, E...

None of the status light was on or even flashing. I thought Power light might be on once the system is powered on, but not sure. If that's the case, it could mean I have some basic connectivity issue on the board and perhaps the processor chip on board doesn't even get power to generate proper status code.

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Lutron Homeworks QS - DIY Help

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I'm currently building a new home and would like to install a Lutron Homeworks QS lighting and shading system. Budgets are tight so I would like to do the project in phases. We're about 3 weeks out from the rough wiring and would like to get the centralized runs, keypads, and shade wiring installed while the walls are still open. In the future when budgets are more flexible, we would start adding local dimmers, shades, and additional centralized wiring for landscape lighting. I'm a software developer with a strong electrical background and my brother is an electrician with several Lutron projects under his belt. I've done a fair amount of homework and believe we are completely capable of managing the project. I'm looking for a dealer willing to provide the Homeworks QS software and hardware. Please PM me if you would like to discuss further. We can set up a call ASAP. (BTW, I've already spoken to a local dealer and their pricing on a phased install is way beyond what I would like to spend. The programming and consulting fees are a huge portion of their cost above and beyond the hardware)  

Run all of the control wiring while you still can, then as you phase in, the wires are already pulled to where you need it.  

You may be able to get your brother, and maybe you with him, QS certified. I think that's the easiest and cheapest way. It may bring him more business, or an increase in pay grade, too. Have your brother call the local Lutron rep to discuss the option.  

Getting certified is certainly an option long term. Unfortunately we don't have the time to go through the course before wiring needs to start. I haven't heard from any dealers yet, so if you know of someone who could help, please let me know. Thanks...  

Speak with, charm, and become friends with the Lutron rep. They can make magic happen. Sign up for QS now, to show your intention is genuine.  

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Adding Astronomical Clock Functionality to an Original Lutron HomeWorks System 1

When my primary residence was built in 1998, the builder installed a Lutron HomeWorks whole-house lighting system. Basically, it’s a set of three panels (one on each floor) that can control all the lighting loads in the house. It also allows any keypad in the house to control any light in the house, providing a lot of flexibility with programming “scenes.” Back then, the system was “top of the line” technology. But as with all things electronic, newer revisions of both hardware and software have pre-empted it.

Most of the newer features, however, I don’t really need. But there is one feature that the newer HomeWorks systems have that my original system doesn’t: an astronomical clock.

An astronomical clock is a fancy word for the ability to control lights using the calculated times of sunrise and sunset —  which times vary depending on your geographical location. My original HomeWorks system offers multiple timer functions, which work great if you want to have your bedroom lights dim up slowly every weekday at a specific time to help you wake up, or trigger an “all off” command every night at midnight to turn off any interior lights that anyone forgot to turn off. Because sunrise and sunset times move around widely throughout the year, using a timer function for the external lights just won’t work. So to have my HomeWorks system turn on the lights at sunset, and turn them off again at sunrise, was impossible without figuring out some “outside the box” solution.

My first solution when I bought the house back in 1999 was to use a combination of three accessories to kind of achieve what I was looking for. I combined a Lutron HWV-IP5 keypad with a dual-pole single throw contactor (a Square D 8910DPA32)  and a standard photocell.

Lutron HWV-IP5 Keypad

The HWV-IP5 keypad interfaces with the HomeWorks system and works as a normal keypad to trigger any lighting functions (or “scenes”) programmed in the system. But in addition to the normal keypad buttons, the HWV-IP5 has dry-contact closures, which can allow third-party equipment virtually press a button to trigger the lighting scenes. So I programmed one of the keypad’s buttons in “maintained” mode, meaning that the button would need to be “held down” to tell the system to turn on the exterior lighting scene. When the button was released, all the exterior lights would turn off. The contact closure for that keypad’s button was then wired to the dry contact side of the 8910DPA32  contactor:

Square D 8910DPA32 Contactor

The line voltage side of the contactor was then wired to the photocell, and the photocell was connected to a “hot” lead in a junction box in the garage. My intent was that the photocell would sense when it got dark, trip the contactor, which would “press and hold” the button on the HWV-IP5 keypad, which would then turn on (and keep on) the exterior lights. At sunrise, the photocell would kill the power to the contactor, which would break contact with the keypad, which would virtually “unpress” the button, and the lights would turn off.

This worked ok… for a while. The photocell would fail and need to be replaced every few years, and as landscaping matured it would cast heavier and heavier shadows on the photocell location, and sometimes on overcast days (of which Seattle has a few), the exterior lights would just stay on all day… wasting lots of electricity.

Years later, after reviewing the excellent Honyewell EconoSWITCH units that I use at our Utah and Eastern Washington houses to trigger exterior lighting that isn’t controlled by a computer, I decided I’d try to use those same astronomical clock features of that switch to control my exterior lights via the Lutron HomeWorks system. Because everything was mostly wired and scenes already programmed as it needed them to be, I merely had to remove the photocell, wire in the EconoSWITCH in its place, program my latitude and longitude, set the clock, and let it do its thing.

Honeywell EconoSWITCH RPLS740B

I’m happy to report that this works perfectly. The EconoSWITCH now triggers the contactor at sunset, which “holds down” the appropriate button on the keypad, which activates the scene (check my EconoSWITCH review to see how easy this is to program and configure for your latitude and longitude). At sunrise, the lights turn off.

So if you’re using a timer or a photocell to control your exterior lighting (whether or not it’s wired to a once-top-of-the-line-but-now-dated lighting control system), consider switching to an astronomical clock to make sure your lights are coming on and off when you want to.

I welcome your questions and comments below!

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Moscow Mule Gift Basket

Moscow Mules have been a favorite cocktail of mine lately and a go to cocktail to mix up at our parties! If you’ve never had a Moscow Mule, you need to try one. The Moscow Mule is a very simple cocktail that consists of ginger beer, vodka, lime juice, honey ginger syrup (optional), and mint.

So when one of my friend’s birthdays was coming up who loves Moscow mules, I knew it would make the perfect gift basket and that they would love it! So, if you’ve got someone who loves Moscow Mules this makes the perfect gift and they will end up loving you! The copper mugs alone are so cool and you can’t have a Moscow Mule without the signature copper mug.

For those friends or family members that love cocktails, this is the perfect gift basket for them for practically any occasion like a birthday, bridal shower, wedding, Father’s Day, Mother’s Day, or Christmas! I’ve got a list of all the items below needed to make a Moscow Mule gift basket! We’ve also made a recipe card and a downloadable PDF file of the recipe to download and print to place in the basket!

MOSCOW MULE RECIPE PRINTABLE

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• Basket • Basket filler • Copper mugs • Ginger Beer from Trader Joe’s or Bundaberg Ginger Beer   • Honey ginger syrup   • Vodka • Jigger  • Bar spoon   • Muddler  • Cocktail strainer  • Bar towel • Paper straws • Limes • Mint • Moscow Mule Recipe card

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